Way Off the Beaten Path
For the truly adventurous traveler, the former Soviet republics of remote Central Asia are the next big thing. But there's little luxury.

By Yana Dlugy

Soaring mountains, some with summits that have never been climbed. The best rock faces outside Patagonia. The whitest white water in the world and, above all, some of the best hiking. But absolutely no glitz. That's both the reward and the drawback to adventure travel in Central Asia, where former republics of the Soviet Union have developed the beginnings of a tourist industry. The infrastructure is still sketchy--poor roads, few good restaurants, hotels and guest houses that are more utilitarian than comfortable. The concept of service barely exists, a relic of the surly Soviet past. But travelers who can stand up to the rigors of tall mountains or untamed rivers find the discomforts a small price to pay for a look at some of the world's most spectacular unspoiled scenery.

Now sovereign states, the republics of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan still attract only a trickle of visitors. The area is far off the beaten path--bounded by Russia, China, Afghanistan, Iran and the Caspian Sea. People who come here have been to the Himalayas, the Alps, the Andes, says David Gillespie of Exodus, a British firm that arranges trips to Central Asia. The Pamirs and Tian Shan are the next step. Samarqand and other cities on the ancient Silk Road are an exotic extra for sightseeing.

Central Asia offers five peaks in the elite category above 7,000 meters (about 23,000 feet). One of them, Lenin Peak, on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, is a relatively easy climb for experienced mountaineers. All you need is ski poles and a good pair of legs, says Vadim Hajbullin, owner of Tour Asia in Almaty, Kazakhstan's largest city. Considerably more challenge can be found on nearby Khan-Tengri and Pobeda Peak. For rock climbers, the Aksu Valley in Kyrgyzstan is known as the Patagonia of Central Asia. And summers are drier than in Patagonia's famous Fitzroy region.

The same corner of Central Asia offers rafting and skiing. But the most popular attraction is trekking--hiking with backpacks through mountain valleys. Trekking is what truly distinguishes Central Asia from other parts of the world. I've been guiding for a long time, and I haven't had one customer who hasn't said that the Kyrgyz are the friendliest people they've run into, friendlier even than the Nepalese, says Rob Smurr, a guide for a San Francisco firm, Mountain Travel Sobek. When hikers approach the kishlaks (summer homes) of Kyrgyz sheep- and goat-herders, smiling children rush out to have their pictures taken and to gawk at the visitors. Novelty adds to the warmth of the welcome. Western hikers have been trudging through Nepalese villages for years, while in Kyrgyzstan, they are still relatively rare.

Two weeks of trekking booked through a travel agency in the West will cost about $2,000 per person, in addition to air fare. Local operators quote prices that are about 25 percent to 40 percent lower, but they don't provide the guarantees offered by foreign firms. This kind of tourism isn't for everyone. The trend in organized adventure travel is 'soft adventure', says Frith Maier, author of Trekking in Russia and Central Asia. People want an unusual travel experience, but they want to have a hot shower and a nice dinner at the end of the day. Central Asian hotels don't usually provide such pampering. More luxury is available out on the trail, in tours organized by Western firms such as Exodus, Mountain Travel Sobek or REI Adventures of Seattle. They can provide comfortable tents, wine with dinner and horses or mules to carry hikers' backpacks.

Food means mutton in the Stans. Kebab is sold in countless stalls on the streets of towns and cities. Water should always be filtered or treated with iodine tablets, and fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly washed in clean water. Some travelers recommend vaccination for hepatitis A. Central Asian produce is abundant and delicious. The Fergana Valley, which runs through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, produces some of the best melons in the world. Fat, yellow figs can be found in Samarqand in late August. Favorite regional dishes include koreak salad--shredded vegetables in a spicy dressing--lepyoshka, the local flat bread, and plov, a mixture of meat, onions, carrots and rice. It is said to have been invented by Genghis Khan, the Mongol conqueror, as a quick, filling meal for his invading hordes.

These days, the mountains of Central Asia can still be violent. Civil strife sometimes flares up, especially in Tajikistan. But governments use their considerable police power to keep tourist areas safe. Out in the upland valleys, hospitality is a sacred tradition for which no tipping is required. Local herders do appreciate simple gifts, however, including resealable plastic bags and hand-me-down shoes and clothes for children. The villagers respond with bowls of kumiss, a yogurty fermented drink. The milky concoction is almost as intoxicating as the landscape.

GRAPHIC: (Map) (Graphic omitted); PHOTO: Climbing in Kyrgyzstan